With Christmas upon us I have been buying numerous presents and one that has really contrasted the past with the present has been an Airfix kit that I have bought for my nephew.
The toy is called “Daleks in Manhattan” and, in keeping with all Airfix models, it takes the form of a self assembly kit that is glued and painted to create a scale model of, in this case, two daleks – one as a complete unit and the other as an “opened out” model exposing the dalek’s interior.
The contrast of the past with the present relates, for me a least, to the fact that this kit has features that include light and sound! I can only assume that some kind of sound chip and possibly an LED module is included for these features.
This would not have been found on an Airfix kit when I was a kid. You needed to go to companies like Tamia for remote control model kits like tanks and they cost a fortune and were too complex for most sub 12 year olds.
The other change is in the nature of the kits that, rather than featuring machines and crafts from wars, now seem to focus on science fiction and other areas.
Whether this is a genuine shift in young model buyers interests or, more probably (and disturbingly), the result of political correctness is something that we will never know. Perhaps a recent UK TV show, in which James May highlighted Airfix products, was a good indication that it is the latter.
So, here is a link to the Airfix site (http://www.airfix.com/) for anyone interested and for those wanting to buy I would recommend Amazon for the best prices and quick pre Christmas delivery.
Thursday, December 10, 2009
Thursday, November 19, 2009
Cold air intake (CAI)
A cold air intake, also sometimes called a cold air induction system, is something that looks similar to a car exhaust pipe, except that is fulfils the opposite role.
In very simple terms all normally aspirated auto engines mix fuel and air to create combustion in the cylinders of the engine. This explosive reaction causes the pistons to move which in turn powers a drive shaft that turns the vehicle’s wheels.
In most standard vehicles the air enters the engine when it is sucked through an air box, however this does have some drawbacks in terms of maximising engine performance. The main one being that the air that circulates around the engine is hot and this means that it has a lower density than an equivalent volume of much cooler air.
Given the fact that more air (denser air) generates a more powerful explosion and one that burns more of the fuel instantaneously, there is an obvious benefit in trying to get cold air into the engine and this is where a cold air intake (CAI) comes in.
What a CIA does is pull cold air from the front of the car (in front engine cars), e.g. typically from the space beyond the grill of the car and in front of the hot radiator. This results in cold air that has not come into contact with any part of the engine being pulled into the engine for maximum effect.
A CAI takes the form of a tube that normally runs from the back of the engine and around the side of the engine before finally exiting where there is a good flow of cool air. In high performance cars CAI are fitted as standard, however in most cars they are a performance enhancing mod that can be fitted with relative ease. If aesthetic and optimum performance are the goal then twin cold air intakes, where one runs either side of the engine body, offer the best benefits.
In very simple terms all normally aspirated auto engines mix fuel and air to create combustion in the cylinders of the engine. This explosive reaction causes the pistons to move which in turn powers a drive shaft that turns the vehicle’s wheels.
In most standard vehicles the air enters the engine when it is sucked through an air box, however this does have some drawbacks in terms of maximising engine performance. The main one being that the air that circulates around the engine is hot and this means that it has a lower density than an equivalent volume of much cooler air.
Given the fact that more air (denser air) generates a more powerful explosion and one that burns more of the fuel instantaneously, there is an obvious benefit in trying to get cold air into the engine and this is where a cold air intake (CAI) comes in.
What a CIA does is pull cold air from the front of the car (in front engine cars), e.g. typically from the space beyond the grill of the car and in front of the hot radiator. This results in cold air that has not come into contact with any part of the engine being pulled into the engine for maximum effect.
A CAI takes the form of a tube that normally runs from the back of the engine and around the side of the engine before finally exiting where there is a good flow of cool air. In high performance cars CAI are fitted as standard, however in most cars they are a performance enhancing mod that can be fitted with relative ease. If aesthetic and optimum performance are the goal then twin cold air intakes, where one runs either side of the engine body, offer the best benefits.
Tuesday, October 13, 2009
PDA
A PDA, short for “personal digital assistant” and sometimes referred to as a palmtop computer, is a multipurpose electronic device that can be carried around, almost like a mobile phone.
PDA’s were intended to turn the portable laptop PC into a pocket sized workstation that enabled diary planning, internet access, multimedia applications and even facilities like satellite navigation to be accessed whilst on the move or outside of the home or office.
Over the last four or five years the PDA has almost disappeared – a result of advanced mobile phone technology which has seen cell phones with the functionality to do almost everything that a PDA does with the added value of phone access and camera and video camera functions.
Mobile phones are also able to use a massive number of applications (apps) that now far out number those available for the more powerful and potentially more versatile PDA.
So where does this leave the PDA?
This is a question which many feel has already been answered as both the sales figures and the numbers of manufactured PDA’s continue to decline rapidly.
Even so, the PDA can have a place and some of the more expensive models that feature large (compared with a cell phone) screens and offer GPS facilities can be perfect for ramblers and walkers or surveyors and engineers.
The PDA also allows you to take word documents, spreadsheets, databases and other MS applications with you, and memory/flash sticks ensure that extra data can always be carried separately and securely.
One problem that the PDA has always suffered from is battery time and, Like a laptop, it requires constant recharging. This is one reason why the less powerful mobile phone seems to have almost defeated the PDA in market share and as a “critics choice”. Even so, the PDA may still make a come back.
PDA’s were intended to turn the portable laptop PC into a pocket sized workstation that enabled diary planning, internet access, multimedia applications and even facilities like satellite navigation to be accessed whilst on the move or outside of the home or office.
Over the last four or five years the PDA has almost disappeared – a result of advanced mobile phone technology which has seen cell phones with the functionality to do almost everything that a PDA does with the added value of phone access and camera and video camera functions.
Mobile phones are also able to use a massive number of applications (apps) that now far out number those available for the more powerful and potentially more versatile PDA.
So where does this leave the PDA?
This is a question which many feel has already been answered as both the sales figures and the numbers of manufactured PDA’s continue to decline rapidly.
Even so, the PDA can have a place and some of the more expensive models that feature large (compared with a cell phone) screens and offer GPS facilities can be perfect for ramblers and walkers or surveyors and engineers.
The PDA also allows you to take word documents, spreadsheets, databases and other MS applications with you, and memory/flash sticks ensure that extra data can always be carried separately and securely.
One problem that the PDA has always suffered from is battery time and, Like a laptop, it requires constant recharging. This is one reason why the less powerful mobile phone seems to have almost defeated the PDA in market share and as a “critics choice”. Even so, the PDA may still make a come back.
Thursday, October 08, 2009
Sliding, rolling and hinged doors
All of the descriptions in the title above can be applied to the various opening systems used in contemporary garage doors.
Of course a pair of hinged doors was the first option of choice for many years, following which the up and over movement became popular. But over the last 30 or 40 years doors that are made from hinged or folding sections and which bend, slide or roll out of the door opening have become popular.
There are a number of reasons for this. One is the desire to have something that is more hi tech or cutting edge, but another is the efficiency of storage that a sectional folding door has over a less flexible large single panel. And in many small modern garages space saving is an important asset.
So which type of opening/folding/sliding/rolling motion is the best?
There is of course no obvious answer as the garage size and construction, plus the available purchase budget all have an impact on the buying decision.
One thing does however stand out is the degree of affordable choice that anyone looking at replacing a garage door now has. Most openings will suit at least a couple of the options above and many will accommodate all of them. This means that options have never been greater, but making decisions have never been harder.
Of course a pair of hinged doors was the first option of choice for many years, following which the up and over movement became popular. But over the last 30 or 40 years doors that are made from hinged or folding sections and which bend, slide or roll out of the door opening have become popular.
There are a number of reasons for this. One is the desire to have something that is more hi tech or cutting edge, but another is the efficiency of storage that a sectional folding door has over a less flexible large single panel. And in many small modern garages space saving is an important asset.
So which type of opening/folding/sliding/rolling motion is the best?
There is of course no obvious answer as the garage size and construction, plus the available purchase budget all have an impact on the buying decision.
One thing does however stand out is the degree of affordable choice that anyone looking at replacing a garage door now has. Most openings will suit at least a couple of the options above and many will accommodate all of them. This means that options have never been greater, but making decisions have never been harder.
Friday, September 18, 2009
Waterproof and breathable fabrics
I have recently been looking into fabrics that are both waterproof and breathable for outdoor use.
These kinds of material are used by hikers, walkers, mountaineers and many who pursue outdoor hobbies. They have the advantage of keeping the water out, but allowing water vapour, in the form of sweat, to escape.
These fabrics are comparatively new and market leaders in the field include names like GoreTex and Event.
Clothing made from these waterproof and breathable fabrics can be quite expensive with a jacket generally starting at around £50 ($75) and ascending to the several hundreds of pounds or dollars.
How they work
The waterproof concept of this type of clothing is fairly easy to understand. The weatherproof material prevents water from getting in, however the breathable element relates to two separate functions, both of which stop the wearer feeling hot and sweaty.
Firstly, the pores in the fabric are too small for water droplets to pass through, but sufficiently big enough for water vapour to pass through.
Secondly, this type of clothing has an inner layer that quickly takes sweat from the body and passes it from the internal surface to the external surface of the material. This is often referred to as wicking and it is this feature of outdoor clothing that results in the high costs and superior performance.
These kinds of material are used by hikers, walkers, mountaineers and many who pursue outdoor hobbies. They have the advantage of keeping the water out, but allowing water vapour, in the form of sweat, to escape.
These fabrics are comparatively new and market leaders in the field include names like GoreTex and Event.
Clothing made from these waterproof and breathable fabrics can be quite expensive with a jacket generally starting at around £50 ($75) and ascending to the several hundreds of pounds or dollars.
How they work
The waterproof concept of this type of clothing is fairly easy to understand. The weatherproof material prevents water from getting in, however the breathable element relates to two separate functions, both of which stop the wearer feeling hot and sweaty.
Firstly, the pores in the fabric are too small for water droplets to pass through, but sufficiently big enough for water vapour to pass through.
Secondly, this type of clothing has an inner layer that quickly takes sweat from the body and passes it from the internal surface to the external surface of the material. This is often referred to as wicking and it is this feature of outdoor clothing that results in the high costs and superior performance.
Tuesday, August 25, 2009
"Rolling" garage doors
This is my first entry for a while because of trips out of the country and some other personal matters that have restricted my blogging.
This post is about garage doors of the roller variety, i.e. a door that lifts upwards and rolls into a compact storage area above a garage door opening.
This kind of door is very clever and very efficient when it comes to space utilization – or more precisely, not using-up space.
How they operate
Roller style doors are manufactured from a number of horizontal sections that flex or hinge enabling the complete door to gently fold around a cylindrical drum that winds the door around it.
This drum is suspended above the garage door opening and, whilst the rotating opening and closing actions (clockwise and anti-clockwise), can be manually achieved, this type of garage door is most usually operated by an electric motor. Most owners of this kind of system have the motor operated automatically by a remote control sensor that can be activated by a small button controlled fob.
The big advantages of this style of garage (or outbuilding) door is that it has a very smooth operation that is free from sudden movements, jolts and judders. The opening mechanics of the door also make it lightweight if operated by hand. Roller doors do not leave any part of the door projecting when the door is in its open state and they only require a very small amount of space to store the door.
All told this is probably the best and most sophisticated of door opening systems and it is highly popular in the USA.
This post is about garage doors of the roller variety, i.e. a door that lifts upwards and rolls into a compact storage area above a garage door opening.
This kind of door is very clever and very efficient when it comes to space utilization – or more precisely, not using-up space.
How they operate
Roller style doors are manufactured from a number of horizontal sections that flex or hinge enabling the complete door to gently fold around a cylindrical drum that winds the door around it.
This drum is suspended above the garage door opening and, whilst the rotating opening and closing actions (clockwise and anti-clockwise), can be manually achieved, this type of garage door is most usually operated by an electric motor. Most owners of this kind of system have the motor operated automatically by a remote control sensor that can be activated by a small button controlled fob.
The big advantages of this style of garage (or outbuilding) door is that it has a very smooth operation that is free from sudden movements, jolts and judders. The opening mechanics of the door also make it lightweight if operated by hand. Roller doors do not leave any part of the door projecting when the door is in its open state and they only require a very small amount of space to store the door.
All told this is probably the best and most sophisticated of door opening systems and it is highly popular in the USA.
Friday, July 10, 2009
Digital photo frames
I just bought my sister what, only 3 or 4 years ago, was an immensely expensive gift – a digital photo frame.
These repositories for digital files take an SD card input with jpg or similar image files and then display the image on a screen.
Screen sizes vary with the 7 inch screens starting at £25 (UK currency) and running to hundreds of pounds Stirling/dollars for the much larger options.
Display levels and file sizes also vary and if you want high definition images you need to look for the largest resolutions possible. These will be specified on the product box as either a maximum file size in bits or MB or, more typically, by two figures that relate to width and depth resolutions. In both instances the larger the number the better.
Once in operation these frames take their electricity from a main socket (possibly a battery) and then run any number of programs. These programs are very simple and allow you to select features like a slide show, (with numerous interchanging images) at a change rate that you specify.
It can also be possible to specify the way in which the photos change (transition). i.e. there may be options that allow one image to slide out whilst another slides in, or for one image to dissolve whilst the next takes its place.
I may also be possible to vary image size and select from landscape to portrait on some of the larger and more expensive frames.
Most of these digital photo frames have some simple button control, but newer models may feature touch screens that use display to make selection and changes quick and simple.
Finally, if you want one of these (for yourself or as a present for someone else), remember that they use the same technology as plasma and LCD flat screen TV’s, so you will not see them clearly if they are in the line of direct sunlight.
These repositories for digital files take an SD card input with jpg or similar image files and then display the image on a screen.
Screen sizes vary with the 7 inch screens starting at £25 (UK currency) and running to hundreds of pounds Stirling/dollars for the much larger options.
Display levels and file sizes also vary and if you want high definition images you need to look for the largest resolutions possible. These will be specified on the product box as either a maximum file size in bits or MB or, more typically, by two figures that relate to width and depth resolutions. In both instances the larger the number the better.
Once in operation these frames take their electricity from a main socket (possibly a battery) and then run any number of programs. These programs are very simple and allow you to select features like a slide show, (with numerous interchanging images) at a change rate that you specify.
It can also be possible to specify the way in which the photos change (transition). i.e. there may be options that allow one image to slide out whilst another slides in, or for one image to dissolve whilst the next takes its place.
I may also be possible to vary image size and select from landscape to portrait on some of the larger and more expensive frames.
Most of these digital photo frames have some simple button control, but newer models may feature touch screens that use display to make selection and changes quick and simple.
Finally, if you want one of these (for yourself or as a present for someone else), remember that they use the same technology as plasma and LCD flat screen TV’s, so you will not see them clearly if they are in the line of direct sunlight.
Wednesday, May 27, 2009
Unusual radiators
I was in a large British DIY store called B & Q the other day looking at bathrooms when I saw some very unusual and stylish radiators. The most outstanding one was almost 2 metres in height and about 0.6 metres wide with very little depth and a shiny black finish.
I have no idea how this particular radiator is powered, or indeed what kind (or kinds) of material it was manufactured from, but it did have a price tag of around £800. Pretty expensive, but very nice if you have that kind of money.
My guess would be that this kind of radiator would be suited to a minimalist room design where colour and clutter were severely limited and a substantial budget was on hand.
There were a number of other equally different radiators on display in B & Q, most based on a pipe or tube like construction, but also incorporating attractive and novel designs that made them different from heated towel rails. Clearly all of these heaters were intended for rooms other than the bathroom.
Vertirad, Kudox, acova and quadro are just some of the companies making these heating appliances and I have seen one radiator that retails at almost £1300 and which includes features such as a digital time display, a mirrored surface, and a choice of ambient backlights in 5 different colors that illuminate a room.
I suppose that when you consider that this radiator is not just a heating unit, but also a clock, mirror and custom lighting centre, its hefty price tag becomes more acceptable.
I have no idea how this particular radiator is powered, or indeed what kind (or kinds) of material it was manufactured from, but it did have a price tag of around £800. Pretty expensive, but very nice if you have that kind of money.
My guess would be that this kind of radiator would be suited to a minimalist room design where colour and clutter were severely limited and a substantial budget was on hand.
There were a number of other equally different radiators on display in B & Q, most based on a pipe or tube like construction, but also incorporating attractive and novel designs that made them different from heated towel rails. Clearly all of these heaters were intended for rooms other than the bathroom.
Vertirad, Kudox, acova and quadro are just some of the companies making these heating appliances and I have seen one radiator that retails at almost £1300 and which includes features such as a digital time display, a mirrored surface, and a choice of ambient backlights in 5 different colors that illuminate a room.
I suppose that when you consider that this radiator is not just a heating unit, but also a clock, mirror and custom lighting centre, its hefty price tag becomes more acceptable.
Thursday, May 21, 2009
Garage doors of the roller variety
I have made a couple of posts about garage doors and the different versions that are available. The obvious options are hinged doors and some variation of folding or sliding doors.
Amongst these one of the best options is the roller door. A roller garage door is comprised of several horizontal panels that are hinged to allow them to turn through a 90 degree bend. This enables the complete door to be drawn into a small area above the garage door’s opening and stored around a cylindrical roller – hence the name.
The beauty of a roller door is that it stores in a very small area above the garage door entry and does not occupy the same roof space as an up and over or sectional door.
It also has a superior and more reliable mechanism and motion than most of its counterparts and this, in turn, lends itself to motorization and remote operation. Indeed, most roller doors tend to be remotely controlled, or can easily accommodate the addition of powered use with a minimum of adjustment.
Sp why should you select a roller door over the other options?
Well it looks good and comes in many styles and finishes. It will usually be robustly manufactured and include insulating layers, and its counterbalancing opening system makes it effortless to use or adapt to a remote operation.
Roller garage doors can be a bit more expensive than other alternatives, but they are also more of a “top end” product and usually come with good warranties.
Amongst these one of the best options is the roller door. A roller garage door is comprised of several horizontal panels that are hinged to allow them to turn through a 90 degree bend. This enables the complete door to be drawn into a small area above the garage door’s opening and stored around a cylindrical roller – hence the name.
The beauty of a roller door is that it stores in a very small area above the garage door entry and does not occupy the same roof space as an up and over or sectional door.
It also has a superior and more reliable mechanism and motion than most of its counterparts and this, in turn, lends itself to motorization and remote operation. Indeed, most roller doors tend to be remotely controlled, or can easily accommodate the addition of powered use with a minimum of adjustment.
Sp why should you select a roller door over the other options?
Well it looks good and comes in many styles and finishes. It will usually be robustly manufactured and include insulating layers, and its counterbalancing opening system makes it effortless to use or adapt to a remote operation.
Roller garage doors can be a bit more expensive than other alternatives, but they are also more of a “top end” product and usually come with good warranties.
Tuesday, May 05, 2009
More on roomba
Yet again I am writing this as our iRobot roomba cleans our living room, kitchen and hall. So this gives me an opportunity to write a little bit more about it.
I would have to add that the vacuum does have a few hiccups and no doubt I will discover more over time. Anyway, here are a couple of minor issues that we have noticed.
Firstly, the unit is naturally heavy for its size which is a good and necessary thing. This does however give it the power to close doors and lock itself in a room. Indeed it did this in our kitchen 10 minutes a go. Naturally the “self induced” prison area gets an exceptional clean, but this is not the robot's objective.
Secondly, roomba is exceptional at finding and pulling out any loose cables of any size. This covers the leads for electrical equipment, phone lines and broadband cables. It does not damage them, but it is happy to play with them and drag them around for a while.
Thirdly, it really is incapable of recognising anything that is narrow and black. This means that desk legs, “spiked” hi fi speaker stands etc get a good knock. (It normally adjusts and reduces its speed as it approaches objects, but not in these cases).
These are small quibbles, but they do mean that you need to spend a couple of minutes preparing the area for roomba before you set it loose.
Even so, once in action it does a very good job and, although it has less power than a regular vacuum cleaner, it compensates by spending far more “meticulous” time in its cleaning chore.
So far we remain very impressed with it and sadly, we have done what everyone else does with an iRobot vacuum cleaner and given it a name.
I would have to add that the vacuum does have a few hiccups and no doubt I will discover more over time. Anyway, here are a couple of minor issues that we have noticed.
Firstly, the unit is naturally heavy for its size which is a good and necessary thing. This does however give it the power to close doors and lock itself in a room. Indeed it did this in our kitchen 10 minutes a go. Naturally the “self induced” prison area gets an exceptional clean, but this is not the robot's objective.
Secondly, roomba is exceptional at finding and pulling out any loose cables of any size. This covers the leads for electrical equipment, phone lines and broadband cables. It does not damage them, but it is happy to play with them and drag them around for a while.
Thirdly, it really is incapable of recognising anything that is narrow and black. This means that desk legs, “spiked” hi fi speaker stands etc get a good knock. (It normally adjusts and reduces its speed as it approaches objects, but not in these cases).
These are small quibbles, but they do mean that you need to spend a couple of minutes preparing the area for roomba before you set it loose.
Even so, once in action it does a very good job and, although it has less power than a regular vacuum cleaner, it compensates by spending far more “meticulous” time in its cleaning chore.
So far we remain very impressed with it and sadly, we have done what everyone else does with an iRobot vacuum cleaner and given it a name.
Thursday, April 30, 2009
iRobot Roomba 530
We have just bought an irobot roomba automated vacuum cleaner. The model is the 530.
One of my motivations for this is the fact that, whilst my wife has household responsibility for the washing and ironing, I cover the cleaning and gardening. Naturally a robotic vacuum cleaner removes one of my less pleasant chores, or at least a portion of one.
The roomba is actually doing its stuff as I write and I can periodically hear it buzzing around and bumping into things downstairs.
How it works
Actually I really do not know how the robot works. Clearly there is a controlling algorithm that firstly detects obstacles and secondly maps out a room, or series of rooms, to be cleaned.
The robot seems to follow a random path without the logic that a human would use in performing this task, however, at the end of the job it seems to have covered all areas of the room being cleaned.
Appearance wise the robotic cleaner takes the form of a disc that must be 14 to 16 inches in diameter and 3 or 4 inches high. It has buttons on the top for start and dock and also in the package are a mains charger, docking station and “virtual wall”. This is a laser projector that can set a boundary for the robot. There are some spare parts too.
In fact it has just made a series of noises, so I will go down to check on its status.
The noise was the sound of it “docking” after about 1 hour and 20 minutes of cleaning. That covered our living room, kitchen and (very small) entrance hall.
The robot has a side brush that lets it get up to wall edges, skirtings, kickboards etc and it is low enough to sneak under radiators and some cabinets. As it approaches an obstacle it detects it, slows down, and then gently bumps into it. However, I must say that it was unable to detect the black narrow legs of my desk yesterday and bashed into those on almost every approach.
So what do I think of it so far?
Well actually it is pretty good. The dust collecting zone is small and needs emptying after each clean and it does not have the power of a regular vacuum. That said, two flat based tables that I removed during the cleaning had their impressions on the carpet completely removed by roomba, so the suction and brush combination must be fairly effective.
I will no doubt come back on this product as I get more of a feel for what it does and does not do, but my first impressions are very favourable.
Prices in the UK vary considerably with John Lewis selling the irobot roomba 530 at £299. However we bought it on special offer at Makro and paid a mere £172.49 which makes it cheaper than the least expensive Dyson. I would also ad that, having had a mid range Dyson vacuum for 4 years, that that device positively does not impress me and “yes James Dyson, IT DOES LOOSE SUCTION”, so stop lying in your adverts.
Here is the iRobot page for the Roomba 530 - http://www.irobot.com/uk/home_robots_roomba530.cfm.
One of my motivations for this is the fact that, whilst my wife has household responsibility for the washing and ironing, I cover the cleaning and gardening. Naturally a robotic vacuum cleaner removes one of my less pleasant chores, or at least a portion of one.
The roomba is actually doing its stuff as I write and I can periodically hear it buzzing around and bumping into things downstairs.
How it works
Actually I really do not know how the robot works. Clearly there is a controlling algorithm that firstly detects obstacles and secondly maps out a room, or series of rooms, to be cleaned.
The robot seems to follow a random path without the logic that a human would use in performing this task, however, at the end of the job it seems to have covered all areas of the room being cleaned.
Appearance wise the robotic cleaner takes the form of a disc that must be 14 to 16 inches in diameter and 3 or 4 inches high. It has buttons on the top for start and dock and also in the package are a mains charger, docking station and “virtual wall”. This is a laser projector that can set a boundary for the robot. There are some spare parts too.
In fact it has just made a series of noises, so I will go down to check on its status.
The noise was the sound of it “docking” after about 1 hour and 20 minutes of cleaning. That covered our living room, kitchen and (very small) entrance hall.
The robot has a side brush that lets it get up to wall edges, skirtings, kickboards etc and it is low enough to sneak under radiators and some cabinets. As it approaches an obstacle it detects it, slows down, and then gently bumps into it. However, I must say that it was unable to detect the black narrow legs of my desk yesterday and bashed into those on almost every approach.
So what do I think of it so far?
Well actually it is pretty good. The dust collecting zone is small and needs emptying after each clean and it does not have the power of a regular vacuum. That said, two flat based tables that I removed during the cleaning had their impressions on the carpet completely removed by roomba, so the suction and brush combination must be fairly effective.
I will no doubt come back on this product as I get more of a feel for what it does and does not do, but my first impressions are very favourable.
Prices in the UK vary considerably with John Lewis selling the irobot roomba 530 at £299. However we bought it on special offer at Makro and paid a mere £172.49 which makes it cheaper than the least expensive Dyson. I would also ad that, having had a mid range Dyson vacuum for 4 years, that that device positively does not impress me and “yes James Dyson, IT DOES LOOSE SUCTION”, so stop lying in your adverts.
Here is the iRobot page for the Roomba 530 - http://www.irobot.com/uk/home_robots_roomba530.cfm.
Thursday, April 23, 2009
Robotic vacuum cleaners
I was in a UK wholesale store last night looking at an automated vacuum cleaner by the irobot company.
The model in question was the roomba 530 and it was on sale at £149.99 + VAT (at 15%). This is very cheap for the UK and the package included a docking station and what I assume to be laser perimeter blocks to prevent cleaning in unwanted zones.
These vacuums really are amazing and they are cheaper than the popular (in the UK at least) Dyson vacs which I can say, through first hand experience, are not what they are cracked up to be.
So what does an irobot vacuum do?
Well put simply it can vacuum clean carpets and hard floors on a single level without any human intervention, other than to flick on a switch. In fact, if you buy the 560 you can even schedule its operation meaning that you do not even have to initiate the cleaning.
The vac will clean up to 4 rooms on a single 3 hour charge and will return to its docking station to recharge once it senses that its battery is running low. Sensors prevent the robot from falling off edges like stairs and it detects walls and other obstacles so as not to charge into them. It will also clean up to skirtings and around chair and table legs.
The one thing that it does require is emptying and periodic replacement of its brushes, but cleaning and maintenance is required of all cleaners, automated or otherwise.
Trying to describe how an irobot vacuum works is actually pointless as I can direct you to a video at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Thsj-uOMxA which illustrates what it does and how it does it far better than a written description.
The model in question was the roomba 530 and it was on sale at £149.99 + VAT (at 15%). This is very cheap for the UK and the package included a docking station and what I assume to be laser perimeter blocks to prevent cleaning in unwanted zones.
These vacuums really are amazing and they are cheaper than the popular (in the UK at least) Dyson vacs which I can say, through first hand experience, are not what they are cracked up to be.
So what does an irobot vacuum do?
Well put simply it can vacuum clean carpets and hard floors on a single level without any human intervention, other than to flick on a switch. In fact, if you buy the 560 you can even schedule its operation meaning that you do not even have to initiate the cleaning.
The vac will clean up to 4 rooms on a single 3 hour charge and will return to its docking station to recharge once it senses that its battery is running low. Sensors prevent the robot from falling off edges like stairs and it detects walls and other obstacles so as not to charge into them. It will also clean up to skirtings and around chair and table legs.
The one thing that it does require is emptying and periodic replacement of its brushes, but cleaning and maintenance is required of all cleaners, automated or otherwise.
Trying to describe how an irobot vacuum works is actually pointless as I can direct you to a video at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Thsj-uOMxA which illustrates what it does and how it does it far better than a written description.
Friday, April 03, 2009
Ergonomic Garden Tools
Ergonomic garden tools are a rapidly growing market area as retirees live longer and spend more of their extended life in the garden and gardening.
The premise behind all ergonomic products is to enable the attainment of a goal, or the completion of a task with a minimum of “safe” physical effort. This effort should also be controlled in such a way as to require the body to make healthy and controllable movements that do not create strains, stress or physical damage.
Naturally, gardening equipment seems an ideal target for this design approach as many tools have their origin in agriculture. Furthermore, the evolution of these tools did not benefit from modern thinking, computer design or ergonomic approaches. Modern ergonomic thinking and design seeks to correct these “wrongs”.
So which gardening tools reap the benefit of ergonomics?
The answer is pretty much all of them in some way or other, however the more physically demanding activities like cutting a hedge, trimming grass and digging see the greatest innovations.
Most ergonomic garden tools see changes in the shape, size, weight and mechanisms of garden tools and these are most prominently noticed in handles, grips and parts that move or require manipulation. Many ergonomic tools have larger, easier-to-grip handles and the balance and weight spread of some tools is changed to make them easier to use.
Items like pruners (securers) see handles designed around the grip characteristics of the hand. This can result in some unusual shapes and frequently larger diameter handles. However these tools can be used for longer with less strain and more comfort.
Many small garden hand tools like trowels feature grips that are turned through 90 degrees to allow the (optimum) fist grip with the wrist held in a straight alignment. This can help to prevent stress injuries and reduces strain on the muscles bones and ligaments of the hand, wrist and lower arm.
Spades, shovels and forks may feature extra wide grips to allow two hands to hold the tool, and handles can be curved or shaped to the grip of the fingers to facilitate holding without the need for excessive pressure.
Reducing weight and using new lightweight materials is another way of enhancing the ergonomics of garden tools, so very few items of garden equipment are manufactured from wood or steel.
Choosing to buy these tools is of course a matter of choice, but their ease of use clearly offers advantages to those who are not as strong or as able as they were and they will ultimately benefit anyone who uses them.
You can see this link for some examples - http://www.lifewithease.com/garden.html.
The premise behind all ergonomic products is to enable the attainment of a goal, or the completion of a task with a minimum of “safe” physical effort. This effort should also be controlled in such a way as to require the body to make healthy and controllable movements that do not create strains, stress or physical damage.
Naturally, gardening equipment seems an ideal target for this design approach as many tools have their origin in agriculture. Furthermore, the evolution of these tools did not benefit from modern thinking, computer design or ergonomic approaches. Modern ergonomic thinking and design seeks to correct these “wrongs”.
So which gardening tools reap the benefit of ergonomics?
The answer is pretty much all of them in some way or other, however the more physically demanding activities like cutting a hedge, trimming grass and digging see the greatest innovations.
Most ergonomic garden tools see changes in the shape, size, weight and mechanisms of garden tools and these are most prominently noticed in handles, grips and parts that move or require manipulation. Many ergonomic tools have larger, easier-to-grip handles and the balance and weight spread of some tools is changed to make them easier to use.
Items like pruners (securers) see handles designed around the grip characteristics of the hand. This can result in some unusual shapes and frequently larger diameter handles. However these tools can be used for longer with less strain and more comfort.
Many small garden hand tools like trowels feature grips that are turned through 90 degrees to allow the (optimum) fist grip with the wrist held in a straight alignment. This can help to prevent stress injuries and reduces strain on the muscles bones and ligaments of the hand, wrist and lower arm.
Spades, shovels and forks may feature extra wide grips to allow two hands to hold the tool, and handles can be curved or shaped to the grip of the fingers to facilitate holding without the need for excessive pressure.
Reducing weight and using new lightweight materials is another way of enhancing the ergonomics of garden tools, so very few items of garden equipment are manufactured from wood or steel.
Choosing to buy these tools is of course a matter of choice, but their ease of use clearly offers advantages to those who are not as strong or as able as they were and they will ultimately benefit anyone who uses them.
You can see this link for some examples - http://www.lifewithease.com/garden.html.
Monday, March 30, 2009
Error posting
I mistakenly added a post and then had to delete the same post from this blog as it was added to the wrong blog. It was intended for another blog with a different theme and subject matter.
A new post will appear here over the next couple of days.
A new post will appear here over the next couple of days.
Friday, March 27, 2009
Gel mouse mats and keyboard wrist rests
Gel and memory foam are rapidly making in-roads into a range of product applications where support or padding is required.
Previously this has been in the sleeping and seated product arena, but now the world of computing is seeing the large scale introduction of these materials.
Two ideally suited areas for these materials are in the application of a projecting wrist support for a mouse mat and a wrist elevator/support for a keyboard.
In both cases these products already exist, but their manufacture has been utilising more conventional foam materials. Even so, gel appears to be ideally suited to such applications with is mouldable and cool-to-the-touch feel, whilst memory foam offers similar contouring properties, but with its characteristic slow recovery foam.
As ever, manufacturers have been quick to capitalise on the interest in Gel and visco elastic foam and there are many gel mouse pads and keyboard wrist rests already in stores and online retailers. For some reason, the memory foam seems less popular at present, but this will no doubt be corrected over time and with more marketing.
Here is a url that will illustrate an example of one of these products, http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=46845, in this case a gel keyboard rest.
Previously this has been in the sleeping and seated product arena, but now the world of computing is seeing the large scale introduction of these materials.
Two ideally suited areas for these materials are in the application of a projecting wrist support for a mouse mat and a wrist elevator/support for a keyboard.
In both cases these products already exist, but their manufacture has been utilising more conventional foam materials. Even so, gel appears to be ideally suited to such applications with is mouldable and cool-to-the-touch feel, whilst memory foam offers similar contouring properties, but with its characteristic slow recovery foam.
As ever, manufacturers have been quick to capitalise on the interest in Gel and visco elastic foam and there are many gel mouse pads and keyboard wrist rests already in stores and online retailers. For some reason, the memory foam seems less popular at present, but this will no doubt be corrected over time and with more marketing.
Here is a url that will illustrate an example of one of these products, http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=46845, in this case a gel keyboard rest.
Tuesday, March 24, 2009
Alternative radiator styles
The last few years have seen a big change in not just the efficiency, but also the aesthetics of radiator design.
Heavy cast iron radiators have been replaced by much more slick and cleaner looking models and towel rails and tubular designs have become the norm in bathrooms, utility rooms and even kitchens.
Much more recently, “real” designer radiators have made an appearance with styles covering flat, concave and convex monolithic designs, along with highly complex pipe-like montages that can even double up as sculptures or artistic statements.
Some of these radiators even hang from a wall like a painting and other use electricity and can be moved around a room for maximum effect.
These radiators do have high price tags, but they manage to take a fairly ugly and awkward looking household utility and turn it into something much more appealing.
There is also a selection of different “heat providing” operations with many designer radiators plumbing into a standard central heating system, but an equal number being more “location independent” and gaining power from mains electricity. These radiators can provide heat through various means including: being oil filled, using a heater element, or heating a solid material and radiating heat rather than convecting it.
The other big development in designer like radiators is their availability. Just two or three years ago these radiators could only be obtained from specialist suppliers, but now they are available at DIY stores, plumbing centres and many furnishing outlets.
Heavy cast iron radiators have been replaced by much more slick and cleaner looking models and towel rails and tubular designs have become the norm in bathrooms, utility rooms and even kitchens.
Much more recently, “real” designer radiators have made an appearance with styles covering flat, concave and convex monolithic designs, along with highly complex pipe-like montages that can even double up as sculptures or artistic statements.
Some of these radiators even hang from a wall like a painting and other use electricity and can be moved around a room for maximum effect.
These radiators do have high price tags, but they manage to take a fairly ugly and awkward looking household utility and turn it into something much more appealing.
There is also a selection of different “heat providing” operations with many designer radiators plumbing into a standard central heating system, but an equal number being more “location independent” and gaining power from mains electricity. These radiators can provide heat through various means including: being oil filled, using a heater element, or heating a solid material and radiating heat rather than convecting it.
The other big development in designer like radiators is their availability. Just two or three years ago these radiators could only be obtained from specialist suppliers, but now they are available at DIY stores, plumbing centres and many furnishing outlets.
Tuesday, March 10, 2009
Garage door motors
In the previous posts I referred to a couple of features of garage door motorization which were not fully explained, so I will elaborate on them now.
Soft start and soft stop
The first is known most commonly as “soft start” and “soft stop” and describes the movement of the garage door at the start and end of its transition from an open to a closed state, or vice versa.
One of the wear and durability problems of early motorised garage door mechanisms was the abrupt start of the door’s motion as the initial movement kicked in, and an equivalent sudden stop as the door hit the frame and its movement ended.
The shock, vibration and general crudeness of this motion did nothing for the garage door's lifespan or appearance during operation, so smoother mechanisms were invented.
Soft start and soft stop garage doors use variable speed so that the initial and final movement of the door is much slower and more controlled. This makes the opening process look better and, more importantly, avoids jolts, jerky movements and additional stress to the door, frame and motor.
Obstruction detection
There are lots of names for a feature that can be generally described as “obstruction detection”.
What this feature does is act as a safety precaution in the event of a human being, animal, or other object blocking the path of the door during opening or closing.
This is critical as garage doors are heavy and the motors that power them are strong. This can be a dangerous combination for anything that inadvertently falls within the path of a moving garage door.
Obstruction detection features use different methods to ensure that the motion of the door is terminated by any obstruction or physical contact with the door and this can be achieved in two ways.
1. The more expensive and less sophisticated way is the use a detector (e.g. laser) to recognise an obstacle blocking the doors path. This triggers a stop action and the door discontinues its motion until the detector reads the area as clear.
2. More popular is a garage door motorization feature that is often referred to as “learning” or “training”. This feature is simple but effective and it relies on the garage door recognising its own movement pattern. It works by spotting any change caused by the door hitting an object (i.e. slowing it down) and this in turn causes the door to halt its movement. Obviously this approach does not predict and stop the door before it makes contact with the obstacle, but it is effective and is often included as a standard feature on many garage door motorization kits.
Soft start and soft stop
The first is known most commonly as “soft start” and “soft stop” and describes the movement of the garage door at the start and end of its transition from an open to a closed state, or vice versa.
One of the wear and durability problems of early motorised garage door mechanisms was the abrupt start of the door’s motion as the initial movement kicked in, and an equivalent sudden stop as the door hit the frame and its movement ended.
The shock, vibration and general crudeness of this motion did nothing for the garage door's lifespan or appearance during operation, so smoother mechanisms were invented.
Soft start and soft stop garage doors use variable speed so that the initial and final movement of the door is much slower and more controlled. This makes the opening process look better and, more importantly, avoids jolts, jerky movements and additional stress to the door, frame and motor.
Obstruction detection
There are lots of names for a feature that can be generally described as “obstruction detection”.
What this feature does is act as a safety precaution in the event of a human being, animal, or other object blocking the path of the door during opening or closing.
This is critical as garage doors are heavy and the motors that power them are strong. This can be a dangerous combination for anything that inadvertently falls within the path of a moving garage door.
Obstruction detection features use different methods to ensure that the motion of the door is terminated by any obstruction or physical contact with the door and this can be achieved in two ways.
1. The more expensive and less sophisticated way is the use a detector (e.g. laser) to recognise an obstacle blocking the doors path. This triggers a stop action and the door discontinues its motion until the detector reads the area as clear.
2. More popular is a garage door motorization feature that is often referred to as “learning” or “training”. This feature is simple but effective and it relies on the garage door recognising its own movement pattern. It works by spotting any change caused by the door hitting an object (i.e. slowing it down) and this in turn causes the door to halt its movement. Obviously this approach does not predict and stop the door before it makes contact with the obstacle, but it is effective and is often included as a standard feature on many garage door motorization kits.
Tuesday, March 03, 2009
Motorized "up and over" garage doors
I posted about automated garage doors a couple of weeks ago and I intend to add some further information about those products now.
Up and over garage doors – electric operation
The most popular style of garage door is the “up and over” action door. This opening and closing mechanism sees the door rise and tilt above the main entrance and occupy a small space just below the lintel that bridges the opening.
With an automated (i.e. electric and remote controlled) garage door the important feature to be aware of is the up and over mechanism.
Up and over doors come in two variations and one is suitable for automation whilst the other type requires significant modification and customizing.
The two options are known as canopy and retractable and the way that they move and store have subtle differences. Differences that make one far more suitable for motorized control than the other.
Canopy garage doors
A canopy garage door is at the budget end of the door opening mechanism scale and it uses a half frame that places the open door 2/3rds of the way inside the garage entrance. The remaining 1/3rd of the door projects outwards beyond the front of the garage wall.
This door mechanism is comparatively crude and jerky and it is not suitable for remote motorization with a conversion kit. These kits literally act to convert a canopy system into a retractable system, so it is far better to by a retractable door if you believe that automation is a prospect at any time in the future.
Retractable garage doors
A retractable garage door has a full frame with a much smoother and more controllable sliding and tilting mechanism. The frame is stronger and more robust, and the levels and points of support are greater and more secure during door transit.
Retractable up and over garage doors lend themselves to automation with a minimum of modification and can be expected to operate smoothly for many years. This door transit mechanism is ideal for controlled motor power and “soft start” and “soft stop” options (which avoid jolts and jerks), work well with this door type.
Research the web for - For more on automated up and over doors, an explanation of the alternative mechanisms etc. You should also find some explanation of automation options and details of the other types (styles) of garage door opening mechanisms.
Up and over garage doors – electric operation
The most popular style of garage door is the “up and over” action door. This opening and closing mechanism sees the door rise and tilt above the main entrance and occupy a small space just below the lintel that bridges the opening.
With an automated (i.e. electric and remote controlled) garage door the important feature to be aware of is the up and over mechanism.
Up and over doors come in two variations and one is suitable for automation whilst the other type requires significant modification and customizing.
The two options are known as canopy and retractable and the way that they move and store have subtle differences. Differences that make one far more suitable for motorized control than the other.
Canopy garage doors
A canopy garage door is at the budget end of the door opening mechanism scale and it uses a half frame that places the open door 2/3rds of the way inside the garage entrance. The remaining 1/3rd of the door projects outwards beyond the front of the garage wall.
This door mechanism is comparatively crude and jerky and it is not suitable for remote motorization with a conversion kit. These kits literally act to convert a canopy system into a retractable system, so it is far better to by a retractable door if you believe that automation is a prospect at any time in the future.
Retractable garage doors
A retractable garage door has a full frame with a much smoother and more controllable sliding and tilting mechanism. The frame is stronger and more robust, and the levels and points of support are greater and more secure during door transit.
Retractable up and over garage doors lend themselves to automation with a minimum of modification and can be expected to operate smoothly for many years. This door transit mechanism is ideal for controlled motor power and “soft start” and “soft stop” options (which avoid jolts and jerks), work well with this door type.
Research the web for - For more on automated up and over doors, an explanation of the alternative mechanisms etc. You should also find some explanation of automation options and details of the other types (styles) of garage door opening mechanisms.
Sunday, March 01, 2009
Memory foam beds and mattresses
I have been checking out some memory foam mattresses online and also in stores.
The price variations are massive with the most expensive being those produced by the Tempur company.
Tempur are widely regarded as being the first company to take the NASA developed memory foam and use it in bedding and their reputation is the highest in the industry.
This is due to a number of reasons ranging from the mattress concept originating from their R & D department, to the high density visco foam that they use, along with the mix of different foam layers for stability and ventilation as well as moulding.
How good, or indeed how much better they are than the competition I do not know. But I can certainly say that their prices range from double to quadruple that of their rivals.
Staying with Tempur, they offer a 15 year warranty – the longest in the industry, but on looking at numerous forums there seem to be a few people who are unhappy with them.
As far as I can determine their warranty requires a permanent deflection in the mattress of around ¾ inches for the unit to warrant replacement (or repair), and they would also seem to be subject to damage through sweating. Rather concerning as memory foam has a reputation for having warm sleeping characteristics. Water damage (which this constitutes) is not covered by any guarantee.
Needless to say, I would assume that every other memory foam manufacturer is just as unwilling to admit “fault” liability, or a problem with a mattress and my personal view is that very few guarantees are worth the paper that they are written on.
What I should add is that I have tried out some Tempur mattresses for about 10 minutes on 4 or 5 occasions and I found them very comfortable. They certainly do mould to the shape of the body and, in the short term, I found this supportive.
Ultimately, I think that we all have different views of comfort and also different reactions to these body contouring mattresses. Clearly some people love them, some people adapt to them, and others simply find them impossible to sleep on. In the case of Tempur there is a 60 day free trial which lets you determine which category you fit into. If you choose not to take the mattress, then you pay only for delivery and return and receive a refund for the actual cost.
The price variations are massive with the most expensive being those produced by the Tempur company.
Tempur are widely regarded as being the first company to take the NASA developed memory foam and use it in bedding and their reputation is the highest in the industry.
This is due to a number of reasons ranging from the mattress concept originating from their R & D department, to the high density visco foam that they use, along with the mix of different foam layers for stability and ventilation as well as moulding.
How good, or indeed how much better they are than the competition I do not know. But I can certainly say that their prices range from double to quadruple that of their rivals.
Staying with Tempur, they offer a 15 year warranty – the longest in the industry, but on looking at numerous forums there seem to be a few people who are unhappy with them.
As far as I can determine their warranty requires a permanent deflection in the mattress of around ¾ inches for the unit to warrant replacement (or repair), and they would also seem to be subject to damage through sweating. Rather concerning as memory foam has a reputation for having warm sleeping characteristics. Water damage (which this constitutes) is not covered by any guarantee.
Needless to say, I would assume that every other memory foam manufacturer is just as unwilling to admit “fault” liability, or a problem with a mattress and my personal view is that very few guarantees are worth the paper that they are written on.
What I should add is that I have tried out some Tempur mattresses for about 10 minutes on 4 or 5 occasions and I found them very comfortable. They certainly do mould to the shape of the body and, in the short term, I found this supportive.
Ultimately, I think that we all have different views of comfort and also different reactions to these body contouring mattresses. Clearly some people love them, some people adapt to them, and others simply find them impossible to sleep on. In the case of Tempur there is a 60 day free trial which lets you determine which category you fit into. If you choose not to take the mattress, then you pay only for delivery and return and receive a refund for the actual cost.
Wednesday, February 25, 2009
Selecting a new bed
I checked out a few beds yesterday including those with memory foam, Latex and a combination of pocket springs and one of the two foams as a top padding.
All were very impressive and one in particular, with a 1440 pocket spring count plus memory foam top surface, was extremely comfortable.
The bed in question was a “sleepmasters” bed and the price seemed to be around £800 (pound Stirling) for a standard double.
Price wise this seems OK, but I have seen a similar online bed with a slightly higher spec for almost £200 less. Both have guarantees, both look very similar and other than the 20% price differential there is little to choose between them.
I must confess that I am not a big “on-line” buyer of expensive items. I know not why as the shipping, delivery, warranties etc seem identical to store bought products. Perhaps I am too familiar with speaking to a salesperson and buying from them.
Whist at the store I also tested a couple of full memory foam beds, i.e. memory foam without springs or coils, and found both to be very restful. One was firm and the other more flexible, but both seemed to offer high standards of comfort and the encapsulating sensation of memory foam is both pleasant and relaxing.
As to what is best, I have yet to make a definitive decision. However, I am leaning towards the combination bed and currently favour a bed with a good pocket spring count and 70mm of memory foam as a cushioned top layer. This pertains to the internet available bed. My wife however favours the store equivalent and the presentation by the salesman who was knowledgeable without being pushy.
All were very impressive and one in particular, with a 1440 pocket spring count plus memory foam top surface, was extremely comfortable.
The bed in question was a “sleepmasters” bed and the price seemed to be around £800 (pound Stirling) for a standard double.
Price wise this seems OK, but I have seen a similar online bed with a slightly higher spec for almost £200 less. Both have guarantees, both look very similar and other than the 20% price differential there is little to choose between them.
I must confess that I am not a big “on-line” buyer of expensive items. I know not why as the shipping, delivery, warranties etc seem identical to store bought products. Perhaps I am too familiar with speaking to a salesperson and buying from them.
Whist at the store I also tested a couple of full memory foam beds, i.e. memory foam without springs or coils, and found both to be very restful. One was firm and the other more flexible, but both seemed to offer high standards of comfort and the encapsulating sensation of memory foam is both pleasant and relaxing.
As to what is best, I have yet to make a definitive decision. However, I am leaning towards the combination bed and currently favour a bed with a good pocket spring count and 70mm of memory foam as a cushioned top layer. This pertains to the internet available bed. My wife however favours the store equivalent and the presentation by the salesman who was knowledgeable without being pushy.
Wednesday, February 18, 2009
Innovative products for those with disabilities
I recently came across this webpage, http://www.iphope.com/main/mobility.html, which has a range of practical and novel products to help young children who have a restriction when it comes to movement.
The restriction may simply be that they have not yet learnt to walk, or that they have a direct disability that prevents them from doing so.
The products covered include some interesting devices that give mobility, aid mobility and even enable the playing of 10 pin bowling.
Unfortunately all of these products fall into, what is for me, a rather archaic solution approach. That is, they replace a lack of physical ability and aptitude with a mechanical alternative that makes no attempt to simulate the actual human movement.
How difficult it is to create or supplement a none functional human movement is something about which I know very little, but for those who are interested, take a look at this page, http://blog.wired.com/geekdad/2008/02/new-prosthetic.html.
In summary, the page is about a “bionic arm” that is being developed in the USA and that uses current technology to duplicate a full range of human movements whilst sending signals directly back to the brain.
This arm is so advanced that by using sensors that link to nerves it is (apparently) possible for the user to get neural feedback on sensations like the pressure of the grip and the temperature of any object that the finger sensors touch – amazing.
How long it will be until these “replacement body parts” become economically viable and available through healthcare organisations is hard to say, but I doubt that I will see them in my lifetime.
The restriction may simply be that they have not yet learnt to walk, or that they have a direct disability that prevents them from doing so.
The products covered include some interesting devices that give mobility, aid mobility and even enable the playing of 10 pin bowling.
Unfortunately all of these products fall into, what is for me, a rather archaic solution approach. That is, they replace a lack of physical ability and aptitude with a mechanical alternative that makes no attempt to simulate the actual human movement.
How difficult it is to create or supplement a none functional human movement is something about which I know very little, but for those who are interested, take a look at this page, http://blog.wired.com/geekdad/2008/02/new-prosthetic.html.
In summary, the page is about a “bionic arm” that is being developed in the USA and that uses current technology to duplicate a full range of human movements whilst sending signals directly back to the brain.
This arm is so advanced that by using sensors that link to nerves it is (apparently) possible for the user to get neural feedback on sensations like the pressure of the grip and the temperature of any object that the finger sensors touch – amazing.
How long it will be until these “replacement body parts” become economically viable and available through healthcare organisations is hard to say, but I doubt that I will see them in my lifetime.
Friday, February 13, 2009
Motorized and automated garage doors
The concept of an automatic garage door is nothing new, however few people realise just how many variations there are on the motorized door theme.
Garage doors can open and close using a variety of methods and movements, but all are based on one of the following.
Conventional hinged doors, where side hinges allow the doors to swing outward horizontally.
Up and over garage doors, where the door lift upwards and backwards and stores above the main garage door void.
Sliding garage doors, where the door slides on tracks or runners and is pulled to one side of the door opening.
Sectional and rolling garage doors, where the door is able to bend through a 90 degree angle, or roll around a drum, due to sectional and hinged panel construction.
There are variations on each of these garage door concepts, but all can be fitted with a motor to allow power assisted movement of the door. The type of door determines the power output and the system used for opening and closing the door, but drive chains and drive belts working with boom operated systems are the most common.
Control of a motor powered garage door is usually by a small remote that can be carried in a pocket or attached to a set of keys. These remotes increase the ease of use and security of the garage door by allowing the opening and closing to be performed without the need to leave the car, van or pick-up.
Not surprisingly, a motor powered garage door costs more than a manual door, but the additional cost is less than most would anticipate. The conversion from powerless to powered is also comparatively simple and will take a professional fitter no more than half a day for most door types.
For further information about powered garage doors and the different types of garage doors, you can check out http://www.garage-door-automation.co.uk/guide.htm (which is a general buyers guide with basic advice and tips).
Garage doors can open and close using a variety of methods and movements, but all are based on one of the following.
Conventional hinged doors, where side hinges allow the doors to swing outward horizontally.
Up and over garage doors, where the door lift upwards and backwards and stores above the main garage door void.
Sliding garage doors, where the door slides on tracks or runners and is pulled to one side of the door opening.
Sectional and rolling garage doors, where the door is able to bend through a 90 degree angle, or roll around a drum, due to sectional and hinged panel construction.
There are variations on each of these garage door concepts, but all can be fitted with a motor to allow power assisted movement of the door. The type of door determines the power output and the system used for opening and closing the door, but drive chains and drive belts working with boom operated systems are the most common.
Control of a motor powered garage door is usually by a small remote that can be carried in a pocket or attached to a set of keys. These remotes increase the ease of use and security of the garage door by allowing the opening and closing to be performed without the need to leave the car, van or pick-up.
Not surprisingly, a motor powered garage door costs more than a manual door, but the additional cost is less than most would anticipate. The conversion from powerless to powered is also comparatively simple and will take a professional fitter no more than half a day for most door types.
For further information about powered garage doors and the different types of garage doors, you can check out http://www.garage-door-automation.co.uk/guide.htm (which is a general buyers guide with basic advice and tips).
Thursday, February 12, 2009
Garage doors - electric options
This is a pre-curser to my next blog addition which will look at motorised garage doors.
Garage doors come in a variety of different forms, some lifting up and over the garage door opening and other sliding around to the side of the opening. There are even doors that will roll up, or bend into the space above the garage door void.
The most common garage doors used to be those with hinges, but these are now less popular, largely because of the reduced cost and ease of use of many of the metal and plastic coated garage doors.
Currently, up and over garage doors are the biggest sellers.
What virtually every garage door has in common though, is the ability to add remote control and motorization. This can be done with a simple conversion kit which turns a standard garage door into something a little bit more impressive.
For more on electric garage doors, how they work, their adaptability and suitability to different door types, see the next post. I will also include some useful links.
Garage doors come in a variety of different forms, some lifting up and over the garage door opening and other sliding around to the side of the opening. There are even doors that will roll up, or bend into the space above the garage door void.
The most common garage doors used to be those with hinges, but these are now less popular, largely because of the reduced cost and ease of use of many of the metal and plastic coated garage doors.
Currently, up and over garage doors are the biggest sellers.
What virtually every garage door has in common though, is the ability to add remote control and motorization. This can be done with a simple conversion kit which turns a standard garage door into something a little bit more impressive.
For more on electric garage doors, how they work, their adaptability and suitability to different door types, see the next post. I will also include some useful links.
Friday, February 06, 2009
Flash drives as gifts or personalised promotions
I am short on time this week, so this post will be brief and none too original.
Most people with a PC or laptop will have a flash drive. These devices are often called a memory stick although the two are different kinds of peripherals.
In short, what a flash drive does is allow you to quickly transfer (almost) any kind of data to or from the flash drive using a PC or laptop. The transfer is fast and the data can then be transferred to another machine without the need for more complex or time consuming connection methods.
The flash drive uses a usb port and the device should be automatically recognised for what it is by any operating system like XP or Vista. This means that it will be allocated its own icon in the “My Computer” window enabling data to be “dragged and dropped” to or from the drive.
It is simple and fast, and a flash drive is tiny meaning that you can always have one with you.
Memory sizes go up to 16GB although the 1GB versions are cheap as chips and just about as useful.
One thing to be aware of with a flash drive is the security – or lack there of. If you intend to use one to carry around confidential information, you may be advised to use an encrypting program in the event of loss or theft.
And finally, to the reason for this post!
A number of companies will now personalise a flash drive with a logo, text, or other visual graphic. This makes them a useful and affordable commercial promotion for customers and clients. It also make them a good gift idea.
Here is a site that offer these thing in their “pimped up” form,
http://www.calendarlady.co.uk/promotional_items/personalised_usb_flash_drive.shtml.
Most people with a PC or laptop will have a flash drive. These devices are often called a memory stick although the two are different kinds of peripherals.
In short, what a flash drive does is allow you to quickly transfer (almost) any kind of data to or from the flash drive using a PC or laptop. The transfer is fast and the data can then be transferred to another machine without the need for more complex or time consuming connection methods.
The flash drive uses a usb port and the device should be automatically recognised for what it is by any operating system like XP or Vista. This means that it will be allocated its own icon in the “My Computer” window enabling data to be “dragged and dropped” to or from the drive.
It is simple and fast, and a flash drive is tiny meaning that you can always have one with you.
Memory sizes go up to 16GB although the 1GB versions are cheap as chips and just about as useful.
One thing to be aware of with a flash drive is the security – or lack there of. If you intend to use one to carry around confidential information, you may be advised to use an encrypting program in the event of loss or theft.
And finally, to the reason for this post!
A number of companies will now personalise a flash drive with a logo, text, or other visual graphic. This makes them a useful and affordable commercial promotion for customers and clients. It also make them a good gift idea.
Here is a site that offer these thing in their “pimped up” form,
http://www.calendarlady.co.uk/promotional_items/personalised_usb_flash_drive.shtml.
Monday, February 02, 2009
Illuminated keyboards, fans and PC peripherals
For those who really are super geeks, it is possible to buy and replace a number of PC peripherals that can jazz up a PC in a range of ways.
The most obvious is a laser mouse which normally has a nice lighting effect, but if your want more “lighting effects” then you can go for an illuminated keyboard.
These keyboards have a number of variations, but all see the keys of the keyboard being back lit in some way.
I most cases the color is blue, but some models have different color choices, or a mix of colors to cover the different zones of the keyboard, e.g. key pad, numeric pad, function row etc.
Quite why anyone would feel the need for such a gadget is beyond me, but it does turn a PC into an ornamental and visually appealing piece of hi-tec furniture and teens, students and geeks alike love them.
If an illuminated keyboard alone is not enough for you, then you can take things one step further.
You can by a transparent plastic or perspex side panel for a PC which makes the (uninteresting) internal workings of the CPU etc visible.
Whilst this on its own has little appeal, you can then add some illuminated fans. These things are the rage and come in many colours and they can be used to replace an existing fan, or better still supplement the fans already cooling the CPU, hard drive etc.
Every PC has slots available for additional fans and the installation is very simple. You plug it in to the power supply (which may be via the main board or a free cable) and then screw the fan (screws will be included) to the case.
Selecting the best aesthetic position inside the PC is critical as this allows the shadows and the spinning effects of the fans to be shown to their optimum.
To see some keyboards, follow this http://www.theglowcompany.co.uk/acatalog/ILLUMINATED_KEYBOARD___MULTIMEDIA.html link and to see some fans, choose this http://www.compusa.com/applications/category/category_slc.asp?CatId=803 alternative.
The most obvious is a laser mouse which normally has a nice lighting effect, but if your want more “lighting effects” then you can go for an illuminated keyboard.
These keyboards have a number of variations, but all see the keys of the keyboard being back lit in some way.
I most cases the color is blue, but some models have different color choices, or a mix of colors to cover the different zones of the keyboard, e.g. key pad, numeric pad, function row etc.
Quite why anyone would feel the need for such a gadget is beyond me, but it does turn a PC into an ornamental and visually appealing piece of hi-tec furniture and teens, students and geeks alike love them.
If an illuminated keyboard alone is not enough for you, then you can take things one step further.
You can by a transparent plastic or perspex side panel for a PC which makes the (uninteresting) internal workings of the CPU etc visible.
Whilst this on its own has little appeal, you can then add some illuminated fans. These things are the rage and come in many colours and they can be used to replace an existing fan, or better still supplement the fans already cooling the CPU, hard drive etc.
Every PC has slots available for additional fans and the installation is very simple. You plug it in to the power supply (which may be via the main board or a free cable) and then screw the fan (screws will be included) to the case.
Selecting the best aesthetic position inside the PC is critical as this allows the shadows and the spinning effects of the fans to be shown to their optimum.
To see some keyboards, follow this http://www.theglowcompany.co.uk/acatalog/ILLUMINATED_KEYBOARD___MULTIMEDIA.html link and to see some fans, choose this http://www.compusa.com/applications/category/category_slc.asp?CatId=803 alternative.
Friday, January 30, 2009
Monitor Eye Protector
I am never quite sure of the true worth of these devices. They idea is that they filter out harmful (to the eye) rays by acting as an intermediate screen between the monitor and the user.
Obviously, with flat screen technology it would seem that these items are now pretty much redundant as the LCD and Plasma screens work in the same way as a regular high definition TV screen.
In days gone by these filters were supposed to take out glare and radiation and this in turn prevented (or eased) eye strain which could potentially lead to headaches etc.
The fact that regulatory control over monitors (in the West) prevented these effects from happening in the first place seemed to pass many by and they were popular for a time. I can even recall a point where some people actually wore sunglasses to use a computer because they believed that these offered some kind of protection from “damaging” rays.
For those with eye strain at the end of a day using a PC or laptop, here are a couple of tips to bring the problem to an end.
1. Punctuate your time looking at the monitor with other distractions. E.g. Go for a brief walk, or focus on a distant object or landmark for 3 or 4 minutes every hour.
2. Check you monitor versus your head and eye line position. Many people view their monitors at an angle of inclination beyond 90 degrees. This can cause eye strain. You should not look up or down to the central point of your monitors screen.
3. Find out if you need reading glasses for close up work. Many who suffer from eye strain when using a monitor simply need glasses (this happened to me).
4. Periodically check the settings of your monitor. You can go on the web and download colour and monochrome “check” charts which you can use to adjust the colour, brightness and contrast settings of the screen to their optimum. If this proves impossible, then your monitor requires replacing.
5. If you are using an old “box” style monitor you need to replace it. Any monitor of this type will be past its sell by date and should be substituted with a modern flat screen equivalent.
This page, http://www.normankoren.com/color_management_2A.html, has some colour charts examples on it.
Obviously, with flat screen technology it would seem that these items are now pretty much redundant as the LCD and Plasma screens work in the same way as a regular high definition TV screen.
In days gone by these filters were supposed to take out glare and radiation and this in turn prevented (or eased) eye strain which could potentially lead to headaches etc.
The fact that regulatory control over monitors (in the West) prevented these effects from happening in the first place seemed to pass many by and they were popular for a time. I can even recall a point where some people actually wore sunglasses to use a computer because they believed that these offered some kind of protection from “damaging” rays.
For those with eye strain at the end of a day using a PC or laptop, here are a couple of tips to bring the problem to an end.
1. Punctuate your time looking at the monitor with other distractions. E.g. Go for a brief walk, or focus on a distant object or landmark for 3 or 4 minutes every hour.
2. Check you monitor versus your head and eye line position. Many people view their monitors at an angle of inclination beyond 90 degrees. This can cause eye strain. You should not look up or down to the central point of your monitors screen.
3. Find out if you need reading glasses for close up work. Many who suffer from eye strain when using a monitor simply need glasses (this happened to me).
4. Periodically check the settings of your monitor. You can go on the web and download colour and monochrome “check” charts which you can use to adjust the colour, brightness and contrast settings of the screen to their optimum. If this proves impossible, then your monitor requires replacing.
5. If you are using an old “box” style monitor you need to replace it. Any monitor of this type will be past its sell by date and should be substituted with a modern flat screen equivalent.
This page, http://www.normankoren.com/color_management_2A.html, has some colour charts examples on it.
Monday, January 26, 2009
Soft tip darts and electronic dart boards
Darts is one of the most played games in the world, mainly because of the low initial and ongoing costs of equipment and the fact that pubs and bars frequently have all the necessary components of the game available for free.
It is also a game where age, sex and fitness offer no barrier and it can be played by one or several people using a number of different games formats, e.g. 301, 501, cricket etc.
The game does however have one potential drawback and that is the steel points of the darts themselves. Injuries in darts are rare to say the least, but these “pointed weapons” may detour some people from wanting them in the home, or allowing younger children to play the game.
There is however a solution to this problem and it takes the form of a variation on the design of the dart tip which is traditionally made from steel.
The alternative is a soft tip dart, where a soft none metallic material is used for the dart’s point reducing the likelihood of damage to players and furniture (from bounce off).
These darts are often referred to as people and furniture friendly.
Soft tip darts have now become a sport within darts and, although they can be used on a conventional fibre board, new electronic dart boards are sold specifically for use with these soft tip darts. These boards do not require the same heavy construction as fibre boards and many incorporate an electronic and automatic scoring counter in the design of the board. This allows the selection of pre-programmed game formats and the automatic counting (or countdown) of the scoring in real time. This makes the games easy to play and attractive to the younger generations who like the clever technology that makes the board work.
Amazingly, these boards and darts are incredibly cheap and you can buy a branded board and a couple of sets of darts for a very insubstantial sum of money.
You can see and read more about soft tip darts and boards here: http://www.dartscorner.co.uk/Darts---Soft-Tip/c414/index.html and also here, http://www.soft-tips.co.uk/.
It is also a game where age, sex and fitness offer no barrier and it can be played by one or several people using a number of different games formats, e.g. 301, 501, cricket etc.
The game does however have one potential drawback and that is the steel points of the darts themselves. Injuries in darts are rare to say the least, but these “pointed weapons” may detour some people from wanting them in the home, or allowing younger children to play the game.
There is however a solution to this problem and it takes the form of a variation on the design of the dart tip which is traditionally made from steel.
The alternative is a soft tip dart, where a soft none metallic material is used for the dart’s point reducing the likelihood of damage to players and furniture (from bounce off).
These darts are often referred to as people and furniture friendly.
Soft tip darts have now become a sport within darts and, although they can be used on a conventional fibre board, new electronic dart boards are sold specifically for use with these soft tip darts. These boards do not require the same heavy construction as fibre boards and many incorporate an electronic and automatic scoring counter in the design of the board. This allows the selection of pre-programmed game formats and the automatic counting (or countdown) of the scoring in real time. This makes the games easy to play and attractive to the younger generations who like the clever technology that makes the board work.
Amazingly, these boards and darts are incredibly cheap and you can buy a branded board and a couple of sets of darts for a very insubstantial sum of money.
You can see and read more about soft tip darts and boards here: http://www.dartscorner.co.uk/Darts---Soft-Tip/c414/index.html and also here, http://www.soft-tips.co.uk/.
Thursday, January 22, 2009
Infrared heater lamps - applications
Infrared heat lamps are comparatively new, or at least comparatively innovative when it comes to affordability and domestic product applications.
An infrared lamp uses infrared rays to radiate heat onto any physical surface that falls within its path.
Put simply, the infrared rays heat up any object onto which they fall, but they “do not” heat up the medium through which they pass, primarily the air.
This creates an interesting dilemma in that most situations that require artificial warmth also requires the raising of the surrounding air temperature, something that infrared lamp heating devices do not achieve.
For this reason, using an infrared heat lamp as a garden, patio or camping heater will have questionable results as the heat will only be enjoyed by those in the glare of the heater. There are however certain products where this unusual kind of “radiated only” heat can be of a big advantage.
A great example of how this technology can work in an extemporary way is the domestic sauna.
Home saunas are often located in a disused room in a house and, although a window will normally be present, no special ventilation will be available.
The problem with home saunas is that, in order to heat up the body of the sauna taker, they require high temperatures. When these temperatures are generated by conventional heaters they often come hand in hand with high humidity. (The hotter the air, the easier it is for it to take in water vapour.)
Naturally, this is not desirable in a house and it can lead to damp and a wet “after atmosphere” along with other undesirable conditions.
This is where an infrared heat lamp can come into its own. This kind of heater will quickly make the skin of the human body hot and sweaty (a sauna requirement), but without increasing the sauna’s air temperature or humidity.
In effect, it tricks the body into thinking that the air is hot by raising the temperature of the skin.
These infra red sauna heaters have become very popular and can now be purchased as a component included in a domestic sauna kit.
As previously mentioned, the other main infrared heat lamp application is the patio heater. In this situation these heat lamps do have some limitations, but they offer cheap running cost and require nothing more than the flicking of a switch to get them working.
An infrared lamp uses infrared rays to radiate heat onto any physical surface that falls within its path.
Put simply, the infrared rays heat up any object onto which they fall, but they “do not” heat up the medium through which they pass, primarily the air.
This creates an interesting dilemma in that most situations that require artificial warmth also requires the raising of the surrounding air temperature, something that infrared lamp heating devices do not achieve.
For this reason, using an infrared heat lamp as a garden, patio or camping heater will have questionable results as the heat will only be enjoyed by those in the glare of the heater. There are however certain products where this unusual kind of “radiated only” heat can be of a big advantage.
A great example of how this technology can work in an extemporary way is the domestic sauna.
Home saunas are often located in a disused room in a house and, although a window will normally be present, no special ventilation will be available.
The problem with home saunas is that, in order to heat up the body of the sauna taker, they require high temperatures. When these temperatures are generated by conventional heaters they often come hand in hand with high humidity. (The hotter the air, the easier it is for it to take in water vapour.)
Naturally, this is not desirable in a house and it can lead to damp and a wet “after atmosphere” along with other undesirable conditions.
This is where an infrared heat lamp can come into its own. This kind of heater will quickly make the skin of the human body hot and sweaty (a sauna requirement), but without increasing the sauna’s air temperature or humidity.
In effect, it tricks the body into thinking that the air is hot by raising the temperature of the skin.
These infra red sauna heaters have become very popular and can now be purchased as a component included in a domestic sauna kit.
As previously mentioned, the other main infrared heat lamp application is the patio heater. In this situation these heat lamps do have some limitations, but they offer cheap running cost and require nothing more than the flicking of a switch to get them working.
Monday, January 19, 2009
Robotic vacuum cleaners
How new and innovative a robotic vacuum cleaner is will depend on where you live.
If you reside in North America, then products like those in the iRobot range have been widely available and very cheap (i.e. sub $99) for some time. However, in the UK and Europe these products have a much lower profile and, until very recently, a much higher price tag too.
Most robotic vacuum cleaners are circular and disc like in appearance and no more than 6 inches high, however their cleaning credentials are very good.
A robotic vacuum cleaner works by using sensors to detect walls, drops (e.g. a stair well) and other obstructions and creates an invisible ground plan of the room that it cleans.
All that the robotic vacuum cleaner’s owner needs to do is to switch it on, in the room requiring cleaning, and then leave it to do its work. The cleaner starts off by mapping out the geometry of the room, following which it systematically vacuums every uncovered inch of the floor space.
There are of course some restrictions to these home help devices.
Firstly, they are not able to clean tightly against a wall or vertical barrier, but then again neither can a regular vacuum cleaner. They are also slow and methodical and this results from their need to map out the area that they clean.
Even so, robotic vacuum cleaners are highly effective. They are proven to clean 99% of the available floor space (and this is actually a higher percentage than most humans achieve) and they do so whilst you get on with other tasks, or even leave the house.
Once the job is completed, the cleaner turns itself off and waits for its bag-less dirt and dust repository to be emptied.
At the top end of the range, but still very affordable, robotic cleaners are capable of connecting themselves to a special recharge port that is plugged into a main electricity socket and they will also adapt to clean different surfaces from carpet to hard floors.
As previously mentioned, the big name in robotic cleaners of this type is iRobot and you can look at some of their products at http://store.irobot.com/corp/index.jsp, where you will spot their quirky names like Roomba and Scooba.
I personally do not own a robotic vacuum cleaner, however some very good friends of mine do and they continually extol its virtues and talk about it as if it (iRobot Roomba) were a family pet. Needless to say, their home is always spotless and they have plenty of additional free time for other more pleasurable activities.
If you reside in North America, then products like those in the iRobot range have been widely available and very cheap (i.e. sub $99) for some time. However, in the UK and Europe these products have a much lower profile and, until very recently, a much higher price tag too.
Most robotic vacuum cleaners are circular and disc like in appearance and no more than 6 inches high, however their cleaning credentials are very good.
A robotic vacuum cleaner works by using sensors to detect walls, drops (e.g. a stair well) and other obstructions and creates an invisible ground plan of the room that it cleans.
All that the robotic vacuum cleaner’s owner needs to do is to switch it on, in the room requiring cleaning, and then leave it to do its work. The cleaner starts off by mapping out the geometry of the room, following which it systematically vacuums every uncovered inch of the floor space.
There are of course some restrictions to these home help devices.
Firstly, they are not able to clean tightly against a wall or vertical barrier, but then again neither can a regular vacuum cleaner. They are also slow and methodical and this results from their need to map out the area that they clean.
Even so, robotic vacuum cleaners are highly effective. They are proven to clean 99% of the available floor space (and this is actually a higher percentage than most humans achieve) and they do so whilst you get on with other tasks, or even leave the house.
Once the job is completed, the cleaner turns itself off and waits for its bag-less dirt and dust repository to be emptied.
At the top end of the range, but still very affordable, robotic cleaners are capable of connecting themselves to a special recharge port that is plugged into a main electricity socket and they will also adapt to clean different surfaces from carpet to hard floors.
As previously mentioned, the big name in robotic cleaners of this type is iRobot and you can look at some of their products at http://store.irobot.com/corp/index.jsp, where you will spot their quirky names like Roomba and Scooba.
I personally do not own a robotic vacuum cleaner, however some very good friends of mine do and they continually extol its virtues and talk about it as if it (iRobot Roomba) were a family pet. Needless to say, their home is always spotless and they have plenty of additional free time for other more pleasurable activities.
Thursday, January 15, 2009
USB Turntable
If you have a lot of music on vinyl in 33rpm or 45rpm format, i.e. records, you may want to transfer that music to another source like MP3 or an audio CD.
Storing your music this way gives you access to listen to it on more modern format players like CD players, a PC or an MP3 player, and it also allows you a back-up in a less depreciable form. All told, it is an option that many music fans (of a certain generation) would like to take advantage of.
One option is to take your old vinyl to a specialist who will, for a considerable charge, do this transfer for you. The other option is to buy a USB turntable.
A USB turntable is, as its name suggests, a turntable that plays records and has the addition of an out-going USB port. This enables you to play a single or LP and save it directly to whatever media you have connected to the other end of the USB cable. This could be an MP3 player, a CD writer, or a PC.
The time taken to perform the data transmission will be the running time of the record, so it is a slow job, but an enjoyable one if you listen to your music as you re-record it.
On the downside, those who are serious audiophiles and listen to their music on specialist kit, will find the reproductive quality limited to say the least. However, if the main media used for playback is intended to be an MP3 player, where the reproduction is far from challenging, then this kind of data transfer device will be more than adequate.
Using a USB turntable may require the running of a driver on a PC and or the uploading of one to an MP3 player (although in most cases this will not be necessary).
Here is a page, http://fwd.five.tv/gadgets/audio-video/numark-tti, with a USB record player illustrated on it.
Storing your music this way gives you access to listen to it on more modern format players like CD players, a PC or an MP3 player, and it also allows you a back-up in a less depreciable form. All told, it is an option that many music fans (of a certain generation) would like to take advantage of.
One option is to take your old vinyl to a specialist who will, for a considerable charge, do this transfer for you. The other option is to buy a USB turntable.
A USB turntable is, as its name suggests, a turntable that plays records and has the addition of an out-going USB port. This enables you to play a single or LP and save it directly to whatever media you have connected to the other end of the USB cable. This could be an MP3 player, a CD writer, or a PC.
The time taken to perform the data transmission will be the running time of the record, so it is a slow job, but an enjoyable one if you listen to your music as you re-record it.
On the downside, those who are serious audiophiles and listen to their music on specialist kit, will find the reproductive quality limited to say the least. However, if the main media used for playback is intended to be an MP3 player, where the reproduction is far from challenging, then this kind of data transfer device will be more than adequate.
Using a USB turntable may require the running of a driver on a PC and or the uploading of one to an MP3 player (although in most cases this will not be necessary).
Here is a page, http://fwd.five.tv/gadgets/audio-video/numark-tti, with a USB record player illustrated on it.
Sunday, January 11, 2009
Home laser levels
Laser levels have been around for a long time, but in the past they have been prohibitively expensive and used solely in the construction industry.
They were originally designed for, and used in, the surveying and project setting out sector, but cheap technology now makes them an affordable “Do It Yourself” product for the home.
What the laser level does
The laser level projects a small and precise laser light on to a surface. This may be a static (non moving) light, or it may spin through 360 degrees (rotary) creating a seemingly continuous line. Some laser levels may project a small cross (like cross hairs).
The advantage to this piece of equipment is that is removes the need to constantly re-measure a level from a datum point, or to transpose a level along a vertical surface using a conventional spirit level.
Because of this it has two big advantages. The first is accuracy and the second is a saving in time and activity which in turn reduces the potential for error.
These devices do require setting up. The simpler and cheaper models have levelling bubbles whilst the more expensive versions have self (auto) levelling mechanisms.
Laser levels are ideal for a home DIY project like dado or skirting levelling, or the installing of a new floor – in fact anything that requires an accurate, consistent and reliable vertical measurement to create a horizontal level.
Finally, some of these levels also combine other features like tape measures.
The good news is that the prices and availability of laser levels now make them perfect for most DIY’ers. They start at under $50 (£35) and these cheap models are more than capable of doing everything required of them during home projects.
Here are some web pages with examples of these products: http://www.abbeypowertools.co.uk/building-tools/spirit-level-laser-levels/showitem-12251-88987.aspx and http://www.myvouchercodes.co.uk/cheapest/Makita-Laser-Level/22391377/477 .
They were originally designed for, and used in, the surveying and project setting out sector, but cheap technology now makes them an affordable “Do It Yourself” product for the home.
What the laser level does
The laser level projects a small and precise laser light on to a surface. This may be a static (non moving) light, or it may spin through 360 degrees (rotary) creating a seemingly continuous line. Some laser levels may project a small cross (like cross hairs).
The advantage to this piece of equipment is that is removes the need to constantly re-measure a level from a datum point, or to transpose a level along a vertical surface using a conventional spirit level.
Because of this it has two big advantages. The first is accuracy and the second is a saving in time and activity which in turn reduces the potential for error.
These devices do require setting up. The simpler and cheaper models have levelling bubbles whilst the more expensive versions have self (auto) levelling mechanisms.
Laser levels are ideal for a home DIY project like dado or skirting levelling, or the installing of a new floor – in fact anything that requires an accurate, consistent and reliable vertical measurement to create a horizontal level.
Finally, some of these levels also combine other features like tape measures.
The good news is that the prices and availability of laser levels now make them perfect for most DIY’ers. They start at under $50 (£35) and these cheap models are more than capable of doing everything required of them during home projects.
Here are some web pages with examples of these products: http://www.abbeypowertools.co.uk/building-tools/spirit-level-laser-levels/showitem-12251-88987.aspx and http://www.myvouchercodes.co.uk/cheapest/Makita-Laser-Level/22391377/477 .
Wednesday, January 07, 2009
Medicated Hand Cleansing Gel
This is not quite within the scope of products that I usually write about, but it is a product that has had a long commercial history and that is now available in chemists/pharmacies and some supermarkets.
Medicated hand cleansing gels are products that you can keep in your pocket or bag and use to cleanse/wash your hands as and when required.
They were popularised by the likes of airhostesses and, in a more clinical way, were originally used by hospital staff.
What they do ?
In short what they do is allow you to kill germs and bacteria on your hands by applying a couple of drops of the gel and then rubbing or massaging it over your palms and between your fingers. The gel dries in seconds and there is no need for a wash basin, water or towel.
The gel creates the same effect that would have been achieved had the hands been washed with soap and water, but without the need for a bathroom or washroom. This means that “hand hygiene” can be achieved at any time and in any place in a matter of seconds. This is ideal for those who are conscious about washing their hands before eating snacks at work, or when outside of the home or involved in an outdoor task.
This means that these gels are great to carry around and they can be used to de-bacterialise the hands before eating, or if any potentially “unclean” material has been touched.
Medicated hand cleansing gels are cheap to buy, i.e. they usually cost less than $2 (£1.50), and they are small in size, but last along time. They operate using a piston action spray nozzle.
Here are two examples of these products http://www.expresschemist.co.uk/product_6770_CUT636P.html and http://www.firstaid4sport.co.uk/Anti-Bacterial-Hand-Cleansing-Gel-100ml-P5258/.
Medicated hand cleansing gels are products that you can keep in your pocket or bag and use to cleanse/wash your hands as and when required.
They were popularised by the likes of airhostesses and, in a more clinical way, were originally used by hospital staff.
What they do ?
In short what they do is allow you to kill germs and bacteria on your hands by applying a couple of drops of the gel and then rubbing or massaging it over your palms and between your fingers. The gel dries in seconds and there is no need for a wash basin, water or towel.
The gel creates the same effect that would have been achieved had the hands been washed with soap and water, but without the need for a bathroom or washroom. This means that “hand hygiene” can be achieved at any time and in any place in a matter of seconds. This is ideal for those who are conscious about washing their hands before eating snacks at work, or when outside of the home or involved in an outdoor task.
This means that these gels are great to carry around and they can be used to de-bacterialise the hands before eating, or if any potentially “unclean” material has been touched.
Medicated hand cleansing gels are cheap to buy, i.e. they usually cost less than $2 (£1.50), and they are small in size, but last along time. They operate using a piston action spray nozzle.
Here are two examples of these products http://www.expresschemist.co.uk/product_6770_CUT636P.html and http://www.firstaid4sport.co.uk/Anti-Bacterial-Hand-Cleansing-Gel-100ml-P5258/.
Saturday, January 03, 2009
Designer radiator style
There are an awful lot of products that evolve, reach a state of acceptable completeness, and then stagnate.
If you think about it, most utility products fall within this category. They are developed and improved upon until an acceptable level of functionality is achieved, following which they hardly change for years, decades or centuries.
The radiator has, until quite recently fallen into this “stagnating” pigeon hole. It has been functional, application accepted, but aesthetically very unappealing. However changes have been a foot over the last one to two decades.
Many products like radiators, that once were accepted as “function only” products, now see a more demanding buyer who expects style, design, and the enhancing of an environment on visual as well as functional terms. This has led to many a restyling of conventional products among which is the designer radiator.
The designer radiator takes two forms.
The first is a purely aesthetic updating of a conventional liquid heating unit, but one that sees the radiator gain a stylish and even a sculptured appearance. E.g.s of these radiators include tower radiators and heated towel rails and there are many variations on these themes.
These designer radiators combine function and utility with room enhancing style and they result in the radiator being something to showcase as a feature, rather than to hide as an un-inspirational and ugly part of a heating system.
The second kind of designer radiator goes one step further. In this instance, the design seeks to include improved functionality, new materials, or new heating technologies, to make the radiator work.
These radiators are the next generation of heating units and their designs and constructions will influence how we heat our internal environments in the future.
As ever, here are a couple of websites with more information. The first offers several pages worth (1st site removed) and the second www.trendir.com/archives/001549.html illustrates a rather bizarre futuristic radiator.
If you think about it, most utility products fall within this category. They are developed and improved upon until an acceptable level of functionality is achieved, following which they hardly change for years, decades or centuries.
The radiator has, until quite recently fallen into this “stagnating” pigeon hole. It has been functional, application accepted, but aesthetically very unappealing. However changes have been a foot over the last one to two decades.
Many products like radiators, that once were accepted as “function only” products, now see a more demanding buyer who expects style, design, and the enhancing of an environment on visual as well as functional terms. This has led to many a restyling of conventional products among which is the designer radiator.
The designer radiator takes two forms.
The first is a purely aesthetic updating of a conventional liquid heating unit, but one that sees the radiator gain a stylish and even a sculptured appearance. E.g.s of these radiators include tower radiators and heated towel rails and there are many variations on these themes.
These designer radiators combine function and utility with room enhancing style and they result in the radiator being something to showcase as a feature, rather than to hide as an un-inspirational and ugly part of a heating system.
The second kind of designer radiator goes one step further. In this instance, the design seeks to include improved functionality, new materials, or new heating technologies, to make the radiator work.
These radiators are the next generation of heating units and their designs and constructions will influence how we heat our internal environments in the future.
As ever, here are a couple of websites with more information. The first offers several pages worth (1st site removed) and the second www.trendir.com/archives/001549.html illustrates a rather bizarre futuristic radiator.
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